BREEDING TILAPIA
Let's review some things that help breeding. Light hanging over tank (timer) on 18 hours a day, 55 gal
tank or larger, start with water filled to top, do not let water get below 1 1/2" below lip of water exiting
from filter, carbon on one side of filter, polyfiber on other side of filter (Emperor 400 Bio-wheel), no pebbles, sand or decorations on bottom of tank (so you can see excess food and feces), both contaminate water, must be siphoned out, wire mesh cover on top of tank, heater to keep water at 80/85 F, PCV tubes longer than fish for female to avoid aggressive courting and rest when she has eggs, green water/algae in tank is OK fish eat it, flower pot laying on side in tank for male to entice female to lay her eggs in, pot must have a top diameter large enough for male to stand vertically, careful not to break your tank, two air stones, well water is OK, if you use tap water, must add PRIME according to instructions (removes chlorine,chloramine,ammonia,detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, provides slime coat for fish), fish urine increases ammonia, use a test kit to measure ammonia once a month, small water pump submerged on end of other end of tank from filter pointing toward bottom of tank (keeps water in motion suspending feces for better filtering), use plastic tube to siphon feces/detritus from bottom of tank, remove 20% of water every four days then refill, use of PRIME would  not be necessary if you fill a container with your hottest tap water letting it set for 24 hours before putting in breeding tank.

No more than five fish per 55 gallon tank. Four female, and one male.The female must accept the male
before breeding will occur. Some females may  not accept a particular male. Much of the literature recommends cutting the upper lip off the male to prevent injury to the female during courting. However, we have never done this with our hybrid tilapia, and have had  no injuries to females.